"Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy within the world." Gustave Flaubert

"A mind that is stretched by a new experience can never go back to its old dimensions." Oliver Wendell Holmes

Thursday, June 15, 2017

End of our journey

Our return trip to Eskilstuna went smoothly but we noted that seating is not as abundant in some of the Scandanavian airports as it is in Toronto or other international airports that we have frequented. As our departure approaches, we look forward to seeing our friend Nancy again in Eskilstuna and spending our last two days with her while visiting a nearby town and castle.
I have loved every moment of our journey but know that Thomas is ready to go home. He would have gone home after the second week, if he had a ticket. He prefers the comforts of home and golf and cannot be away from them too long. I think I could stay away for months if I knew that Sebastian, our dog, was being loved and cared for. There are many places that I must see and cultures and experiences that are waiting for me. I need to travel each year so that I can see everything that is awaiting.
Icelandic air was a disappointment experience again on the way home and we will never fly with them again. Economy seats should provide more comfort than they provided. In 2011 the "Comfort Class" ticket gave us a private lounge and lots of space. However, I did not even notice that option of any of the flights this time. "Comfort Class" appears to have become "First Class". The Keflavik Airport had no seating for 95% of the people taking the flight to Toronto and everyone had to stand for 45 minutes while waiting for the flight. The plane was not close to the airport exit so buses had to take us to the area on the field where the plane was located. The bus had to return to the main exit 3 times to get all the passengers. Bathrooms were scarce and the line-ups were 20 deep at the women's entrance. They want to be a major airport hub but do not understand how to treat and keep their passengers. Their attitude is very different now that they have become a large airline. It appears that passengers are not giving airlines feedback, soon they will be treated like baggage. I hope to try United Arab Emirates as it is suppose to respect its passengers and provide services on its flights.

Thursday, June 8, 2017

Bergen the Beautiful

The Sognefjord extends more than 200 km inland to the town of Flam at the foot of the Jotunheimen Mountains. The day trip provided us with incredible scenery filled with waterfalls, forests and small settlements. Yesterday on a large catamarans we passed by the Naeroyfjord which is a spectacular arm of the Sognefjord and the narrowest fiord in the world. At one point it is only 250 metres wide with mountains towering more than a thousand metres about its tranquil waters. UNESCO deemed this small fiord a world heritage site to ensure its protection in the future.
The town of Flam at the end of the fiord was inundated with tourists from trains, buses, cruise boats and large ships. They were competing for the limited space in the stores and area and we were thrilled to get away from them once we reboarded out boat for Bergen. During the trip we met a lovely couple called Nancy and Jeff from Arizona and spent time with the on the ride home. Thomas slept through part of the ride to Flam to escape from all the tourists and nurse his cold. I did not have issues with the numbers or company and ran around looking at the views and taking photos on my iPad. Numerous trips are available to see the fjords of Norway and it is a must activity for any visitor.
We were so exhausted from our trip yesterday that we slept in and missed our breakfast this morning. However it was a good thing as we went to a little Italian restaurant and had fantastic almond cookies and focaccia sandwiches. After that we wandered around town through the neighbourhoods along the side of the fiord and went to the bus station to enquire about the airport bus. Our last full day provided us with more rain and low cloud cover during the day but it cleared in the evening and we were able to take the funicular up Mt Floren at 8:30 pm tonight. The views were breathtaking so we decided to walk the 3 km route down to the bottom. It was an amazing experience and I loved every second of it. Before going up the mountain we ate dinner at a lovedly restaurant called the Dickens in a lovely glassed in porch. What a great end to our time in Bergen! The people here have been so kind and caring. Many are bilingual or trilingual and are quick to monitor your needs and support you. 

Tuesday, June 6, 2017

Raincoats a Must

Bergen is an UNESCO world heritage site that does not slow down when it rains. The area only receive 60 days of sunshine a year and locals believe that inappropriate dress not rain is the issue. Rain is a part of their daily life and the merchants here probably sell more raincoats than anywhere else I have visited in the world. The colours and styles of raincoats have exceeded my expectations and I was not even looking for a coat, I merely needed an umbrella. The colours, styles, and sizes of umbrellas was just an unbelievable as raincoats. Today we found a new stylish navy raincoat for Thomas and a red umbrella for myself. I may still get myself a coat before I leave so we will have matching coats for future trips.
Three cruises boats and many buses arrived at the main docks today and thousands of tourists from around the world were walking around Bergen with Thomas and I. The locals have no town when the cruise ships arrive as they fill every nook and cranny. It was too many people for us so we left the area and moved to the side of town where the locals frequent. We returned to the Pingvinen, a local brown cafe, which means penguin, for lunch and both of us had outstanding lunches. I had homemade chicken vegetable soup and Thomas had a ham and vegetable stew. We did some grocery shopping to stock up on licorice, potato chips and chocolate. We returned to Pingvinen for supper and had fish, steamed cabbage, something like mashed parsnip  and a tasty carrot salad. Tonight we noticed that the cruise ships had left port so the town was back to normal. 
Tomorrow we must get up early to go down the Sognefjorden fiord to Flam on a NORLED boat cruise. This fiord is the largest and deepest in Norway and stretches right into the foot of Jotunheimen and Jostedalen national parks. We will be away for just over 11 hours. Two hundred plus other people will be on the cruise so let's hope it goes well. We must be there by 7:30 am to get good seats. Food options are limited on the boat so we will make small sandwiches at breakfast for our lunch and have junk food to go with that. Looking forward to getting fantastic photos!

Sunday, June 4, 2017

Rain, Rain Go Away


Varying degrees of rainfall followed us around Oslo today. We stayed in the main lobby of the hotel until 12:15 hoping that the clouds would open and the sunshine would peek through, however, it was not meant to be so we put on our raincoats and ventured out. Our first stop was the Apothek for our third bottle of cough medicine and fifth box of Strepsils. Our colds are persistent and frustrating and they will probably start to go away as soon as we go home!
We got soaked during our morning walk and returned to our room to dry off and nap. 
At 5:00 pm we ventured out again to Schroeder our favourite brown cafe. Brown cafes serve traditional food, are more reasonably priced and are frequented by the locals. This cafe started in 1912 and Hans Schroeder took it over in 1925. The current building the cafe is housed in was built in 1954 so is as old as I am. We enjoyed 3 of or 4 dinners at this cafe and will miss its simple charm and delicious home cooking. The rain increased in intensity as soon as we started walking to it but was the rain was not too bad once we got halfway back to the hotel after dinner.
Not many people were on the streets tonight because of the weather so I was able to retake some photos without crowds of people in them.
Tomorrow we leave for Bergen, Norway and are staying in the Comfort Hotel. We have already found a brown cafe called Pingvinen there so continue our quest for delicious, affordable, traditional food

Saturday, June 3, 2017

Cruise Boat Frenzy

Our day started in a relaxed mood as we moved through the streets to the Akershus Slott/Akershus Castle and Fortress in Bergen. As we entered the fortress crowds of people started moving into the area and when we looked to the harbour it was evident that we would be competing all day with thousands of tourists from a gigantic cruise liner. We have encountered this challenge before on every journey we have taken and they do not seem to understand the etiquette of sharing a city with tourists who are not in their small group. Everything we did today depended on where the crowds were gathering.
Thomas and I quickly moved through the fortress and castle and then fled to the Armed Forces Museum and grounds. Few visitors were there as the buildings were closed so we enjoyed our walk near the waterfront and around the grounds. From there we made our way to the main pier to get a good view of the Oslo Fiord. Views everywhere were limited due to the gigantic cruise ship and other ships docked in the harbour. The Nobel Peace Centre looked quiet so we entered and had a fantastic experience viewing video histories on all Nobel Peace Prize Winners. The display on the first floor on Syrian Refugees was excellent as well. 
While at the pier we had cod and chips, in Oslo that meal consists of 3 ozs of deep fried cod and 10 French fries for the low price of 110 krones which is $18. Lunch for 2 with water and coke was around $40. We were told Oslo was expensive and every single thing we do confirms that concept is true! No backpacker budget here for anyone! While eating we had a clear view of the Oslo Radhus/City Hall. Once we finished eating we made our way back to the hotel to rest our feet and rest and further recover from our colds. 
We dined at Brasserie France and had an outstanding meal that I am sure will make a nice dent in our pocketbook. The onion soup was to die for and it was all French cuisine. Our colds dampened our appetites and prevented us from enjoying the exquisite meals we ordered. Nevertheless, we have no regrets. Off to bed in the hopes that our colds are somewhat better tomorrow.

Friday, June 2, 2017

Sunshine and Warmth Needed

Our breakfast at the First Hotel Millenium this morning was excellent and I am sure it would have cost a fortune to pay for it in a restaurant. A cup of water with lemon costs over $5 so a choice of fresh bread, meat, cheese, fruit, OJ, scrambled eggs, bacon, sausages, cereal, coffee and a variety of croissants would be at least $30 with the rates they charge for food in Oslo.
We spent the morning looking for a navy blue jacket for Thomas but it was impossible to find a 2xl with the right style, pockets, colour and length. We walked 8000 steps and never found one like the ones he admired in Goteburg and Copenhagen. Not sure if we will find one in Bergen as it is a smaller city than Oslo and may have less stores. Time will tell. We had such good luck looking for shoes in Copenhagen that we hoped we would repeat the experience in Oslo with his jacket.
We have noticed that public bathrooms are not that plentiful on this holiday as many small restaurants to do not have to provide one for their patrons. Today we went in the Hard Rock Cafe so Thomas could use the facilities after we searched and searched for public washrooms. We did not have to purchase anything but the young woman working in the store was very helpful and kind as well so we decided to purchase 2 t-shirts.
The Den Norske Opera and Ballett is an incredible structure at the waterfront that is Norway's largest music and stage institution. It is suppose to resemble an iceberg and visitors can walk up the angled exterior surfaces of the building to the roof for fabulous views of the Bjorvika district of central Oslo. It is constructed of white marble from Carrara, Italy and white granite and appears to rise from the water. Oslo is at the end of a fiord and it was not until we were on the roof that we could see one section of the harbour.
The Det Kongelige Slott or Royal Residence which was built from 1824 - 1848 was our second priority on our walking tour today and the flag was up on top of the residence which meant the royal family was home. It started sprinkling when we were there and Thomas was feeling worse as the day progressed so we left there and went to supper early to Shroeder's Restaurant so he could get back to the hotel and rest. My cold is still with me by it is in a different phase than Thomas's.

Thursday, June 1, 2017

Oslo, A City Under Construction

Our train trip from Goteburg, Sweden to Oslo, Norway went smoothly and the views out our window gave us another opportunity to admire the beautiful pastoral countryside. Our transfer in Karlstad, Sweden was short and the area where the train station was located did not show a very picturesque panorama of the city. We were concerned about the day temperature in Oslo as there was a very brisk north wind in Karlstad but the air there and on the train was actually colder than the air in Oslo at 4:15 p.m. 
It was an easy walk from the train station to the First Hotel Millennium. We are situated very close to the main sights in Oslo and did a fast walk around today once we dropped off our laundry. Like Stockholm, Gothenburg, Malmo and Copenhagen, Oslo has a beautiful historical area.
We had dinner tonight at a Norwegian restaurant called Restaurant Schroeder and had sauerkraut, smashed peas which I was not fond of, roasted potatoes and meatballs and gravy. We are going to try reindeer another day.  Everything was delicious and reasonably priced for Scandinavia. 
It cost $88 to wash and dry two loads at the Selva Laundromat and have it delivered to our hotel, a little more than the cost of our dinner which was $83 including tip. We wanted to do our own laundry but laundromats are not plentiful and the owners use most of the machines and make a profit by charging to do people's laundry. They did a great job but it was expensive. To give you a perspective of cost, I was charged $5,29 for a mug of hot water with 2 slices of lemon in it. I figured that would be free but not a chance.
Much of the downtown area is under construction with building renovations, brick restoration and road paving. They want to develop a five-mile people-friendly and traffic-free promenade stretching from east to west the entire length of its waterfront. All traffic in the downtown area must pay a toll  to travel on city streets and cars and trucks now travel around the area in underground tunnels. It was wonderful to walk without the nuisance of cars but each town we have visited have had a car free zone. Not sure why this is not happening more in Toronto and the GTA. Oslo will have the biggest car free zone when they are finished their dream. The number of new buildings being constructed by the Opera and Ballet House appear to be condos and businesses.
Thomas and I are both exhausted as we are both fighting wicked colds. I am on Day 10 and feel and look terrible because I cough all night and cannot sleep. He is on Day 3 and probably got sick because of me. We live on cough drops and cough medicine but it is not putting a dent in my cold. I may have to see a doctor if it does not start getting better.
I was surprised to discover that Norway is not in the European Union. Looking forward to doing a  walking tour of the city tomorrow. We have 4 nights here so can take our time and cram less into each day. We usually walk 6 to 8 miles a day!