End of our journey

Our return trip to Eskilstuna went smoothly but we noted that seating is not as abundant in some of the Scandanavian airports as it is in Toronto or other international airports that we have frequented. As our departure approaches, we look forward to seeing our friend Nancy again in Eskilstuna and spending our last two days with her while visiting a nearby town and castle.

I have loved every moment of our journey but know that Thomas is ready to go home. He would have gone home after the second week, if he had a ticket. He prefers the comforts of home and golf and cannot be away from them too long. I think I could stay away for months if I knew that Sebastian, our dog, was being loved and cared for. There are many places that I must see and cultures and experiences that are waiting for me. I need to travel each year so that I can see everything that is awaiting.

Icelandic air was a disappointment experience again on the way home and we will never fly with them again. Economy seats should provide more comfort than they provided. In 2011 the "Comfort Class" ticket gave us a private lounge and lots of space. However, I did not even notice that option of any of the flights this time. "Comfort Class" appears to have become "First Class". The Keflavik Airport had no seating for 95% of the people taking the flight to Toronto and everyone had to stand for 45 minutes while waiting for the flight. The plane was not close to the airport exit so buses had to take us to the area on the field where the plane was located. The bus had to return to the main exit 3 times to get all the passengers. Bathrooms were scarce and the line-ups were 20 deep at the women's entrance. They want to be a major airport hub but do not understand how to treat and keep their passengers. Their attitude is very different now that they have become a large airline. It appears that passengers are not giving airlines feedback, soon they will be treated like baggage. I hope to try United Arab Emirates as it is suppose to respect its passengers and provide services on its flights.

Bergen the Beautiful

The Sognefjord extends more than 200 km inland to the town of Flam at the foot of the Jotunheimen Mountains. The day trip provided us with incredible scenery filled with waterfalls, forests and small settlements. Yesterday on a large catamarans we passed by the Naeroyfjord which is a spectacular arm of the Sognefjord and the narrowest fiord in the world. At one point it is only 250 metres wide with mountains towering more than a thousand metres about its tranquil waters. UNESCO deemed this small fiord a world heritage site to ensure its protection in the future.
The town of Flam at the end of the fiord was inundated with tourists from trains, buses, cruise boats and large ships. They were competing for the limited space in the stores and area and we were thrilled to get away from them once we reboarded out boat for Bergen. During the trip we met a lovely couple called Nancy and Jeff from Arizona and spent time with the on the ride home. Thomas slept through part of the ride to Flam to escape from all the tourists and nurse his cold. I did not have issues with the numbers or company and ran around looking at the views and taking photos on my iPad. Numerous trips are available to see the fjords of Norway and it is a must activity for any visitor.
We were so exhausted from our trip yesterday that we slept in and missed our breakfast this morning. However it was a good thing as we went to a little Italian restaurant and had fantastic almond cookies and focaccia sandwiches. After that we wandered around town through the neighbourhoods along the side of the fiord and went to the bus station to enquire about the airport bus. Our last full day provided us with more rain and low cloud cover during the day but it cleared in the evening and we were able to take the funicular up Mt Floren at 8:30 pm tonight. The views were breathtaking so we decided to walk the 3 km route down to the bottom. It was an amazing experience and I loved every second of it. Before going up the mountain we ate dinner at a lovedly restaurant called the Dickens in a lovely glassed in porch. What a great end to our time in Bergen! The people here have been so kind and caring. Many are bilingual or trilingual and are quick to monitor your needs and support you. 

Raincoats a Must

Bergen is an UNESCO world heritage site that does not slow down when it rains. The area only receive 60 days of sunshine a year and locals believe that inappropriate dress not rain is the issue. Rain is a part of their daily life and the merchants here probably sell more raincoats than anywhere else I have visited in the world. The colours and styles of raincoats have exceeded my expectations and I was not even looking for a coat, I merely needed an umbrella. The colours, styles, and sizes of umbrellas was just an unbelievable as raincoats. Today we found a new stylish navy raincoat for Thomas and a red umbrella for myself. I may still get myself a coat before I leave so we will have matching coats for future trips.

Three cruises boats and many buses arrived at the main docks today and thousands of tourists from around the world were walking around Bergen with Thomas and I. The locals have no town when the cruise ships arrive as they fill every nook and cranny. It was too many people for us so we left the area and moved to the side of town where the locals frequent. We returned to the Pingvinen, a local brown cafe, which means penguin, for lunch and both of us had outstanding lunches. I had homemade chicken vegetable soup and Thomas had a ham and vegetable stew. We did some grocery shopping to stock up on licorice, potato chips and chocolate. We returned to Pingvinen for supper and had fish, steamed cabbage, something like mashed parsnip  and a tasty carrot salad. Tonight we noticed that the cruise ships had left port so the town was back to normal. 
Tomorrow we must get up early to go down the Sognefjorden fiord to Flam on a NORLED boat cruise. This fiord is the largest and deepest in Norway and stretches right into the foot of Jotunheimen and Jostedalen national parks. We will be away for just over 11 hours. Two hundred plus other people will be on the cruise so let's hope it goes well. We must be there by 7:30 am to get good seats. Food options are limited on the boat so we will make small sandwiches at breakfast for our lunch and have junk food to go with that. Looking forward to getting fantastic photos!

Rain, Rain Go Away

Varying degrees of rainfall followed us around Oslo today. We stayed in the main lobby of the hotel until 12:15 hoping that the clouds would open and the sunshine would peek through, however, it was not meant to be so we put on our raincoats and ventured out. Our first stop was the Apothek for our third bottle of cough medicine and fifth box of Strepsils. Our colds are persistent and frustrating and they will probably start to go away as soon as we go home!

We got soaked during our morning walk and returned to our room to dry off and nap. 
At 5:00 pm we ventured out again to Schroeder our favourite brown cafe. Brown cafes serve traditional food, are more reasonably priced and are frequented by the locals. This cafe started in 1912 and Hans Schroeder took it over in 1925. The current building the cafe is housed in was built in 1954 so is as old as I am. We enjoyed 3 of or 4 dinners at this cafe and will miss its simple charm and delicious home cooking. The rain increased in intensity as soon as we started walking to it but was the rain was not too bad once we got halfway back to the hotel after dinner.
Not many people were on the streets tonight because of the weather so I was able to retake some photos without crowds of people in them.
Tomorrow we leave for Bergen, Norway and are staying in the Comfort Hotel. We have already found a brown cafe called Pingvinen there so continue our quest for delicious, affordable, traditional food

Cruise Boat Frenzy

Our day started in a relaxed mood as we moved through the streets to the Akershus Slott/Akershus Castle and Fortress in Bergen. As we entered the fortress crowds of people started moving into the area and when we looked to the harbour it was evident that we would be competing all day with thousands of tourists from a gigantic cruise liner. We have encountered this challenge before on every journey we have taken and they do not seem to understand the etiquette of sharing a city with tourists who are not in their small group. Everything we did today depended on where the crowds were gathering.

Thomas and I quickly moved through the fortress and castle and then fled to the Armed Forces Museum and grounds. Few visitors were there as the buildings were closed so we enjoyed our walk near the waterfront and around the grounds. From there we made our way to the main pier to get a good view of the Oslo Fiord. Views everywhere were limited due to the gigantic cruise ship and other ships docked in the harbour. The Nobel Peace Centre looked quiet so we entered and had a fantastic experience viewing video histories on all Nobel Peace Prize Winners. The display on the first floor on Syrian Refugees was excellent as well. 

While at the pier we had cod and chips, in Oslo that meal consists of 3 ozs of deep fried cod and 10 French fries for the low price of 110 krones which is $18. Lunch for 2 with water and coke was around $40. We were told Oslo was expensive and every single thing we do confirms that concept is true! No backpacker budget here for anyone! While eating we had a clear view of the Oslo Radhus/City Hall. Once we finished eating we made our way back to the hotel to rest our feet and rest and further recover from our colds. 

We dined at Brasserie France and had an outstanding meal that I am sure will make a nice dent in our pocketbook. The onion soup was to die for and it was all French cuisine. Our colds dampened our appetites and prevented us from enjoying the exquisite meals we ordered. Nevertheless, we have no regrets. Off to bed in the hopes that our colds are somewhat better tomorrow.

Sunshine and Warmth Needed

Our breakfast at the First Hotel Millenium this morning was excellent and I am sure it would have cost a fortune to pay for it in a restaurant. A cup of water with lemon costs over $5 so a choice of fresh bread, meat, cheese, fruit, OJ, scrambled eggs, bacon, sausages, cereal, coffee and a variety of croissants would be at least $30 with the rates they charge for food in Oslo.

We spent the morning looking for a navy blue jacket for Thomas but it was impossible to find a 2xl with the right style, pockets, colour and length. We walked 8000 steps and never found one like the ones he admired in Goteburg and Copenhagen. Not sure if we will find one in Bergen as it is a smaller city than Oslo and may have less stores. Time will tell. We had such good luck looking for shoes in Copenhagen that we hoped we would repeat the experience in Oslo with his jacket.

We have noticed that public bathrooms are not that plentiful on this holiday as many small restaurants to do not have to provide one for their patrons. Today we went in the Hard Rock Cafe so Thomas could use the facilities after we searched and searched for public washrooms. We did not have to purchase anything but the young woman working in the store was very helpful and kind as well so we decided to purchase 2 t-shirts.

The Den Norske Opera and Ballett is an incredible structure at the waterfront that is Norway's largest music and stage institution. It is suppose to resemble an iceberg and visitors can walk up the angled exterior surfaces of the building to the roof for fabulous views of the Bjorvika district of central Oslo. It is constructed of white marble from Carrara, Italy and white granite and appears to rise from the water. Oslo is at the end of a fiord and it was not until we were on the roof that we could see one section of the harbour.

The Det Kongelige Slott or Royal Residence which was built from 1824 - 1848 was our second priority on our walking tour today and the flag was up on top of the residence which meant the royal family was home. It started sprinkling when we were there and Thomas was feeling worse as the day progressed so we left there and went to supper early to Shroeder's Restaurant so he could get back to the hotel and rest. My cold is still with me by it is in a different phase than Thomas's.

Oslo, A City Under Construction

Our train trip from Goteburg, Sweden to Oslo, Norway went smoothly and the views out our window gave us another opportunity to admire the beautiful pastoral countryside. Our transfer in Karlstad, Sweden was short and the area where the train station was located did not show a very picturesque panorama of the city. We were concerned about the day temperature in Oslo as there was a very brisk north wind in Karlstad but the air there and on the train was actually colder than the air in Oslo at 4:15 p.m. 

It was an easy walk from the train station to the First Hotel Millennium. We are situated very close to the main sights in Oslo and did a fast walk around today once we dropped off our laundry. Like Stockholm, Gothenburg, Malmo and Copenhagen, Oslo has a beautiful historical area.

We had dinner tonight at a Norwegian restaurant called Restaurant Schroeder and had sauerkraut, smashed peas which I was not fond of, roasted potatoes and meatballs and gravy. We are going to try reindeer another day.  Everything was delicious and reasonably priced for Scandinavia. 
It cost $88 to wash and dry two loads at the Selva Laundromat and have it delivered to our hotel, a little more than the cost of our dinner which was $83 including tip. We wanted to do our own laundry but laundromats are not plentiful and the owners use most of the machines and make a profit by charging to do people's laundry. They did a great job but it was expensive. To give you a perspective of cost, I was charged $5,29 for a mug of hot water with 2 slices of lemon in it. I figured that would be free but not a chance.

Much of the downtown area is under construction with building renovations, brick restoration and road paving. They want to develop a five-mile people-friendly and traffic-free promenade stretching from east to west the entire length of its waterfront. All traffic in the downtown area must pay a toll  to travel on city streets and cars and trucks now travel around the area in underground tunnels. It was wonderful to walk without the nuisance of cars but each town we have visited have had a car free zone. Not sure why this is not happening more in Toronto and the GTA. Oslo will have the biggest car free zone when they are finished their dream. The number of new buildings being constructed by the Opera and Ballet House appear to be condos and businesses.

Thomas and I are both exhausted as we are both fighting wicked colds. I am on Day 10 and feel and look terrible because I cough all night and cannot sleep. He is on Day 3 and probably got sick because of me. We live on cough drops and cough medicine but it is not putting a dent in my cold. I may have to see a doctor if it does not start getting better.

I was surprised to discover that Norway is not in the European Union. Looking forward to doing a  walking tour of the city tomorrow. We have 4 nights here so can take our time and cram less into each day. We usually walk 6 to 8 miles a day!

A Touch of Cold

Thomas woke up today feeling like he is getting a cold. This is unfortunate as I have struggled with a chest, throat and sinus cold for the last week and I did not want him to get it. I hope that he does not get the same cold that I have had as it wicked and has definitely impacted our holiday. The poor guy is sleep deprived by all my coughing and nose blowing 24 hours a day. I think we need to visit another Apoteket to get more Strepsil lozenges as they won't last until morning if we are both using them. 

After the rain stopped this morning the weather turned cooler and it took two coats to keep me warm. The title refer to two different types of cold.

We enjoyed the Konstmuseet and artworks by European and Scandanavian artists. The Fish Church/Feskekorka and Haga District were satisfactory but nothing to write home about. I loved the 200+ stairs climb to the Skansen Kronan an old fortress that is now a conference and wedding venue setting. The panoramic views of the city were fantastic and I am glad that Thomas kept walking in the direction where we found the steps.

For lunch we had an amazing fish soup that made our colds feel somewhat better and at the same time the clouds parted and the sun warmed us in the outdoor cafe. We have enjoyed out time here but are ready to move on. I am a bit worried as I have read that Norway is more expensive than Sweden. Laundry will be our number one priority in Oslo as we are wearing the same warm clothes over and over and they all need washing. I have already found a laundromat 30 minutes from our Hotel so we can do it and ensure that none of our clothing gets destroyed. We are staying at the First Millenium Hotel and hope that it is as great as our last two hotels.

Glorious Gothenburg

Our train trip from Copenhagen to Gothenburg went smoothly and less transfers were needed thanks to the recommendation from a ticket distributor to take an earlier train to Malmo and avoid the previous transfer scheduled at the Copenhagen Airport. This gave us additional time in Malmo to walk around and see the sights around the train station. 

Our hotel is cozy, comfortable and compact and close to all sights. Hotel Vanilla has a public cafe which serves delicious desserts and we are looking forward to their breakfast experience in the morning. We would definitely recommend our temporary home to others as our room called the "Peppar Room" feels just like home. We are only a 3 minute walk from the Domkyrkan cathedral.

Gothenburg is a bustling city and the cafes are packed with friends sharing drinks and food. We are amazed at the number of young people sitting in the cafes and wonder how they afford it! Fashion is a priority with most and we appear to be too casual in our hiking clothes. Clothing, drinks and dinners out must take most of their earning! Food is cheaper here than in Copenhagen but alcohol continues to be overpriced and I wonder how these social people save money for travelling which I know they love to do.  Swedes must live in the moment and not worry about the future which is not a bad philosophy. 

Today we did a walkabout around town and saw many sights and then planned our priorities for tomorrow which is our only full day in the town. The Konstmuseum, Fish Church and historical Haga section of town will be where we spend our time. The rain stopped once we arrived today and I hope it stays away until we leave on June 1. We have had little rain so far and able to walk everywhere that we need to go.

History and Hygge

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Copenhagen, Denmark is a modern city full of fashion, history and charm. Everything there is to see is within walking distance if you have energy and good shoes and the city is packed with shops, bars, restaurants and sights. We managed to walk 7-8 miles most days we were in Copenhagen and slowed down on our last full day as our legs were aching. Cyclers are everywhere but we did not bother to use that mode of transportation. Our hotel is near Tivoli Gardens, an amusement park that dates back to 1843, as well as the train station. We were able to see many key sights in two days.

Slotsholmen, an island separated from the city centre by a moat like canal on three sides and the harbour on the other side was an easy walk for us. We visited it on a work day for Danes and enjoyed the absence of crowds. The Christiansborg Palace, Det Kongliege Bibliotek, Royal Library and Danish Parliament were a relaxing, peaceful experience with no crowds. Our time at the Marble Church or Frederik's Church, was the highlight of our day and was a breathtaking sight with its copper green dome and golf leaf designs. It was located beside some beautiful French style apartments in the elegant area of Frederiksstaden where I would love to live if I won the lottery. Nyhavn and the Harbourfront were glorious on the weekend but packed with people enjoying the sunny weather and this incredible section of Copenhagen. The Little Mermaid statue was nothing too exciting and I wonder why it receives the attention that it does.  

Copenhagen is more expensive that Toronto as a tax of 26% is added to meals and costs are higher for all foods because of the higher minimum wage for workers in the food industry. We had an incredible dinner at Royal Steak on our first night that exceeded out expectations. A hamburger can run close to $20 and large beer  is more than $15. Looking forward to Ontario prices after we return home.
Tomorrow we leave for Goteburg, Sweden and hope that we can get to the train station before the rain which is predicted arrives. Our May 27th trip to Copenhagen from Stockholm on SJ was a bit frustrating as we sat on the tracks for 2 hours because of a freight train breakdown and then all passengers were dumped in Malmö instead of being taken to Copenhagen Central as our exit point. We had to take a city train from Malmo to Copenhagen as our high speed train needed to return to Stockholm. We paid for first class for the complete trip and did not get what we paid for on that voyage. SJ is very focused on customer satisfaction and refunded us $78 for our ticket before we returned home. I am sure that tomorrow will be uneventful trip.

Venice of the North

Nancy was not working on the first day that we plan to visit  Stockholm so she was our expert guide. Stockholm city, the capital of Sweden, has a population of 933,000 and people live on its 14 islands. Water which appears to be unpolluted is everywhere. Gamla Stan home to the Royal Palace is the historic core of the city and bridges that connect the islands, let visitors know they are moving from one island to another. The sights are spread out over a number of islands and walking is an easy way to get around. The Swedes are incredibly respectful of walkers and always stop when anyone is standing near a crosswalk. Nothing like the treatment that drivers give walkers in the GTA. 
The site where an ISIS sympathizer hijacked a beer truck and drove it into a crowd of shoppers in central Stockholm on April 7/17 was one of our stops. Four people were killed and 15 others injured during the tragedy. Notes were posted and covered the wood covering over the previous glass windows. 
Gamla Stan was very picturesque but full of tourists from the cruise ships so we did not spend much time there. The Swedes who had a state holiday were, also, busy enjoying the  sights and restaurants in their capital. We enjoyed our time along the waterfront and then made our way to Djurgarden to discover that the Vasa Museum had line-ups longer than we imagined. My legs were tired so we took a bus back to Norrmalm for dinner and the train back to Eskilstuna. We may attempt to see more of Stockholm when we return in June before our flight home.

Next Stop Sweden!

Our flight from Toronto was fine but Icelandic Air is like all other airlines and now only provides the bare essentials to economy passengers. Last time we flew Economy-Comfort and had a very different experience. The difference in the cost for each type of ticket was more expensive than 2011 and I refused to pay the difference knowing that the costs within each city we were visiting was going to be expensive. Our Economy Comfort seats in 2011 provided us with a private lounge between flights and that was missed by us as well. Washrooms were not readily available at the airport and usually only 1-2 stalls were within each bathroom cluster. Seating at the airport was limited as well and at least 50% of the people on our second flight had nowhere to sit while waiting for our plane. It surprised us as Toronto Pearson and many other International Airports have ample seating for their many passengers. Thomas always wants to fly and sit in Business Class but it is never going to happen as it is too expensive. We have heard that Emirates provides quality flights and service and I hope to fly with the in the future.

Once at Arlanda Airport we took the bus to the city of Stockholm and then took the SJ train to Eskilstuna to meet our friend, Nancy. She was waiting for us at the train station when we arrived and guided us back to her apartment. Once at her place we decided to stay at home for dinner where she cooked chicken curry with rice which was excellent. After dinner Nancy took us on a tour around the town and  it was evident that Eskilstuna is a city with lots to offer. Being exhausted from our flights as well as from our last week supporting mom and her funeral, we went to bed after our tour hoping that our jet lag would disappear by morning. The skies are never dark in Sweden and the sunrises at 4 AM, that impacted our ability to sleep as you never feel like it is bedtime. We are happy to be here and will certainly tolerate the feeling of being exhausted. It is part of travelling and I welcome the discomfort!